Crossing into Missouri we headed for Joplin and the place of business of a friend of David’s, Randy. We toured the place and made plans to have dinner together. Randy gave us a suggestion for getting to our motel by using secondary streets. Joplin is one of the many “big towns” that are not very bike friendly. Meaning, streets with no room for bikes. Dinner was at “El Charrd” a local Mexican restaurant. It was very good.
(4-29 Springfield) I have not mention it but it’s been very humid. This was a surprise to me since it’s been so cool. Today was no different from the past days, sunny, cool, and humid. Again David lead us across Joplin using secondary streets and on to Hwy 96 which is Route 66. We rode on some of the very old Route 66 road today. As I have said there are bits and pieces of the many different Route 66 alinement’s along the away. The secret is to find them. We did a pretty good job of doing this. We usually had three sources of information with us, Route 66 Traveler’s Guide by Tom Snyder, Antique Roads of America - Bicycle Guide by Dan Mahnke, and local maps and info that we picked up along the way. Also keeping our eyes open for signs was a big help.
One hour after we checked into our motel a big thunder and lightning storm hit. After the storm passed we headed for dinner at China Star Buffet. They had an item which was new to me, “peanut butter chicken.” Pretty good.
(4-30 Lebanon) The wind returned toady but it was mostly a side wind. Again it was sunny and cool. We were back on Route 66 for most of the day. The road kill in Missouri is now mostly turtles, the pond kind. Like the armadillo the turtle is not known for it’s speed. David did his best to save a turtle that was trying to cross the road. David waved his hands and pointed to it in hopes the on coming truck would avoid the poor turtle. I think the driver thought David was pointing it out, as he hit it square on. There was no time for David to get off his bike to remove the turtle from the road.
After checking into our motel David went to get a haircut. I went along for the ride. While David told the barber to cut it short, the barber kind-of went overboard. I had to take a second look at the shop to be sure it was a barber shop and not a Army Recruiting place.
Lebanon is the home of “Barrels of Fun” the world’s largest barrel factory. There are several parts to this place, tour of the barrel factory, wine tasting room, and a gift shop. The barrel factory produces oak barrels of white oak for the wine and bourbon industries, not only in America, but in 13 other countries. The gift shop is famous for its Walnut Bowls and they have many different sizes. Dinner was at “Western Sizzlin” another all-you-can-eat place, our favorite kind of place.
From Chicago to Santa Monica, Route 66 curved like a shining ribbon from Lake Michigan to the Pacific Ocean. One of the major stops along the way was Lebanon. People stayed at Camp Joy, one of the first tourist camps built along the road. They stayed at Nelson’s Dream Village and cars lined up for blocks for the evening light and water show in the motel’s fountain. They ate “Famous Fried Domestic Rabbit” at Andy’s Street Car Grill. On the sad side is that most of those places are long gone, but in Lebanon there’s still a lot of that old feeling to visit. Munger Moss is one of the classic motels on Route 66. It’s been on “The Mother Road” since 1946. We missed Munger’s because it was on the other side of town.
(5-1 Rolla) We woke to rain, thunder and lightning. As we watched the Weather Channel we could see that this storm should end in a few hours and there should be a small break before the next storm hits. At 10:40 AM we made a mad dash for it. While we did ride some of Route 66 we did ride a lot of I-44 just for speed. When we were on I-44, Route 66 was running right along side us. As it turned out the next storm did not happen.
We made a quick lunch stop at “Redmon’s Home of 1,000 snacks in the town of Phillipsburg. They may have had 1,000 snacks but they did not have much to make a decent lunch. After lunch we had one of the more scary pieces of road of the whole tour. It was a long bridge with very little shoulder but the worst part was on the other side of the bridge. It was a long up-hill with almost no shoulder and screaming trucks right next to you. Also the side of the road was very broken up and hard to ride. Yes, we got through it OK. David had his fourth and last flat of the tour.
We made another food stop at a McDonald’s where they had a “high tech” hand washer. It was a cavity in the wall that you put you hands in, not touching anything. First warm water runs over your hands, than soapy water come down, followed by warm water to rinse your hands. Rolla, our stop for today, is up on high ground and the view, at sunset, across the green rolling valley below was wonderful. Dinner was at “Sirloin Stockade.” Yes, another all-you-can-eat place.
(5-2 Gray Summit) It was overcast with some fog when we started out. We rode Route 66 all day. It was a day of rolling hills. In a small town we met a couple from England, Mike and Peggy, who were going our direction and riding Route 66. They left Santa Monica a week before we did. What was very strange is that we never heard of them. You always hear who is just ahead of you, especially in this case as they rode the same route as we were riding. He is 71 years of age and she is, I don’t know (No, I did not and would not ask a lady her age - special note, since being home we have exchanged e-mail and she has told me her age, which I still won’t publish, but she sure is a good rider). They were traveling very light and were strong riders. We rode together for the rest of the day. It was cool and overcast all day. I was tired by the time were checked in to our motel.
Since it was so cool I was wearing several layers and when I took this off to hang up in the motel, I noticed we had no hangers. So I went to the office to get some. I asked the lady for some hangers and she replied “hangers don’t come with the room.” After she thought about what she has said, she said she would look for some. Later she came by and said she could not find any but had called the Best Western motel down the road and they would being some by. Sure enough, about 30 minutes later, 6 hangers arriver.
David and I got on our bikes (now unloaded) and rode around the area looking for a place for dinner. I was also looking for “Magnetic Collectables.” I was looking for one for each of the 10 states we were riding through. These are like refrigerator magnets and are the shape of the states. I had already found all but Oklahoma. I never did find Oklahoma. Once home I gave a call to several local truck stops, none of them had any. A Truck Stop, in Troutdale, OR. has ordered it for me, thanks (Ps - it turned out that the one they got me did not match the others).
The four of us went to dinner at the “Tri-County” restaurant. Yes, it was a all-you-can-eat place. Since we leave at different times in the morning we said our goodby’s after dinner. There was little chance we would see each other again because we were heading for Black Jack, just north of St. Louis and they would be heading into St. Louis. Once in Chicago they would be heading to Quebec and then on to Boston before heading home. Of course once we reach Chicago we would head for Minneapolis. We did not see them again. I have commutated with them, since being home, via e-mail.
(5-3 Black Jack) It was a great day, sunny and cool turning warm in the afternoon. We rode Route 66 to Eureka where we started to jog north east in order to get to Black Jack. Now if you are wondering why Black Jack let me tell you. I had put a free ad in Adventure Cycling’s magazine requesting any info about Route 66. I got several answers with one coming from Adair. He sent me some copies of a map from the 50s showing Route 66 through the St. Louis area. He also offered to put us up for the night.
We rode through some of the nicer parts of St. Louis. A hilly area with long driveways, big front lawns and big houses. It was a very beautify area. Again David was ahead of me and when I caught up with his he was talking to a Russian Man. This man, a few years ago, had ridden around the world, which include riding all the way across Siberia. We rode on to find a place for lunch. Stopping, about 2 miles down the road, at “Salvator’s Cafe.” Salvator’s marque read “World’s Best Sandwich.” Just as we were about to go in the cafe the Russian guy walked up and wanted to take our pictures. He must have gone home, he was walking when we first saw him, got his camera, got in his car and went looking for us.
From the line inside Salvator’s there was not doubt he (yes, he Salvator makes them himself) must make a great sandwich. Sure enough it was great. After lunch we continued on find our way across greater St. Louis. It was mostly up hill, what else is new. When we got close I gave Adair a call to get the final directions to his house. Just as we started to head up his street he was pulling out of his driveway to help direct us.
Again we hit the exact date that I had told Adair we would arrive (kind of a miracle with all that we have been through). Adair’s wife, Marti, would be home later but he had already started dinner. He was making a big pot of homemade chili and it sure smelled good. After unpacking and taking a shower it was time for dinner and it was as good as it smelled. Marti arrived home and we had a wonderful evening together. Adair is also a bike, runner, and hiker. All to soon it was time for bed.
(5-4 Staunton, IL) We were up at 6am and it was raining. In fact when we looked on the Internet at the weather there was a severe weather warning for the area. We could hear and see the thunder and lightning. Adair had gone out for Krispy Kreme donuts for breakfast, my first taste of these famous donuts, and all I can say is “mmm mmm good.” The rain kept up. About 11am we all decided to head out in the car for another breakfast at Denny’s. At 12:30 PM the weather had turned good enough to hit the trail. Adair will ride along with us and guide us across the “Old Chain of Rocks Bridge” and into Illinois. The weather still did not look good but it was not raining. There was a bit of wind and on the cold side.
Old Chain of Rocks Bridge: completed in 1929 at a cost of over $2 million. The Bridge shorten travel time from the City of St. Louis to Edwardsville, IL and points north. At 5,353 feet long, it remain’s one of the longest continuous truss bridge in the country. The 22-degree bend was designed so that southbound river boats could align with the current, slip between the bridge’s piers and avoid striking the two water intake towers in midstream just south of the Bridge.
The Bridge spans one of the most scenic sections of the Mississippi River. This Bridge was for many decades a key link in the beloved Route 66. The bridge is now open to only foot and bike traffic. It was a wonderful ride across the Bridge. We could see downtown St. Louis and the Gateway Arch from the Bridge. A historic Route 66 interpretive area, complete with a vintage Model A fire truck was on the bridge. The bridge opened in 2001.
As I type this tour report Adair is hiking the northern half of the Appalachian Trail, 1,000 miles with is brother-in-law. He will be sending home weekly reports and pictures. This is the Internet address:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~laevoli
A big thanks goes to Adair and Marti for taking such good care of us. Also I wish Adair all the very best on his hike.
We rode 374 miles in Missouri with 11,980 feet of gain.