Day-1
July 9 - Portland to East Glacier, Montana via Amtrak
Miles ridden 16 from home to the train station
There are no picture(s) or words that can express just how beautify this area is. The snow capped mountains just jump up from the valleys. There are lakes and streams everywhere. Wild life is all around you. We climbed many hills and cross the Continental Divide four times. We had rain, wind, clouds, blue skies, cold, sun and heat. We visited these Canadian Parks, Banff, Jasper, Yoho, Kootenay, and Water-Glacier International Peace Park. We rode 1363 miles in 24 days.
On this tour I rode my Cannondale T-1000. I took a tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad as well as all the other stuff you need for a 3+ week bike tour. We did not take any cooking gear since the plan was to stay mostly in International Youth Hostels (YH) where we would cook as a group (breakfast and dinner, lunch would be on the road, where ever we could find a store or restaurant).
The only change I made from my 1998 tour (coast-to-coast) was that I bought a water-proof bag for the top of my rear rack and changed the position of the bag. In the past I used a semi-water proof bag that carried my sleeping bag and sleeping pad. I would mount it cross-wise on the rear rack. The bag was lined with a plastic bag. If rain was expected I would put another plastic bag over the whole thing. This worked but I was always concerned about my sleeping bag getting wet. On this tour I would not need a tent and the sleeping pad for most of it but I would need my sleeping bag for all of it. In the new water-proof bag I put my tent, fly, stakes and sleeping pad so that I could leave it behind for the Banff to Banff part of the tour. I used one of my pockets in the panniers as a stuff bag for the sleeping bag. I also mounted the new water-proof bag length-wise (see picture above). This worked really great and I had no concerns about anything getting wet. By the way my panniers were made by Robert Beckman of Bend, Oregon.
The riders were from three different locations:
From Seattle = Scott
From Portland = TOB
From the Minneapolis area = David, Jim, Kitty, Melissa, Marv, Ed, and Eva.
The official tour would start and end in Banff but several of us would ride to the start (David, Scott, Jim, and TOB) from East Glacier (EG) in Montana and then ride back to EG when the tour ended (David, Jim and TOB). Others would join us in Banff and one later in the tour, due to car problems.
I loaded up my bike and rode to the Portland Amtrak Station (16 miles). As I pulled up to the station I saw two other bikers who had just gotten off the train and were ready to head to Astoria (Oregon). I found out that they were planning on riding across the USA. When I told them that I was heading for East Glacier to meet some others and then head north into the Canadian Rockies, they said "your Tom and you are wearing your blue shirt." Who were these two riders and how did they know me.
Well, let me tell just how small this world is. In 1999, David (my friend who rode coast-to-coast with me in 1998) rode from his home, in Minneapolis, to Oregon so that we could ride Cycle Oregon together. On this ride he met a lady (Mary) who lives in Wisconsin and they have stayed in contact. About 4 months ago David rode to Wisconsin to see Mary. During this visit Mary introduced David to her friend and his son who were thinking about riding cross country this year. Yes, these were Mary's friends. They knew me from reading David's book about our cross country trip in 1998. If I was not 5 hours early for my train I would have never met them. After some more talk they headed for their adventure and I packed my bike in the train box and sat down to wait for the train to leave for my adventure.
As the train pulled out from the station, at 4:40pm, I realized that another adventure was about to begin. Soon we reached the banks of the Willamette River where I could look down on the company from which I retired from in 1994, Wacker Siltronic. As night fell I tried to get some sleep but had no luck. I guess I was just to excited.
Day-2
July 10 - Tour of East Glacier
Miles ridden 22
In Spokane, (WA) our train joined with the train from Seattle to become the train known as "The Empire Builder." On the Seattle train was Scott, who I met in 1998 when he and his two daughter (13 &15) were riding cross country. We found each other and had breakfast together. Soon the train pulled into East Glacier. Scott and I toured the town and had lunch, at Buzz' Brew Station. This is a very good restaurant. After lunch Scott and I went for a 22 mile ride. David was coming from Fargo (ND) and would not get in until around 8pm. David had ridden from Minneapolis to Winnipeg for a Folk Music Festival, that he goes to almost very year. When the Festival was over his wife dropped him off in Fargo on her way back to Minn. David's train pulled in and after hugs all around we headed for dinner, at the same restaurant, and then to the East Glacier Hostel, where we were staying this night. This Hostel is located above Brownies Grocery (& Bakery) and is nestled in the Rocky Mountains in the heart of the Blackfeet Indian Reservation . What a great way to wake up in the morning, to the smell of fresh baked cinnamon rolls. Yes, I had one, mmm mmm good.
Note: so I won't have to say it each day I did find a coin everyday of the tour. A mixture of American and Canadian. I found the following:
pennies = 67
nickels = 13
dimes = 22
quarters = 15
dollars = 3 (all Canadian)
total $10.27
I also found two bandannas now giving me a total of 170.
Day-3
July 11 - East Glacier YH to Waterton YH, Alberta, Canada
Miles ridden 79
We woke to sunny and blue skies and headed north towards Waterton, Alberta, 79 miles away. Lunch was in the town of Bibb where Jim was waiting for us. He had spent few days in Glacier National Park and came over, Going to the Sun Highway, which is a very beautiful ride (David and I rode this road in 1998). We took Chief Mountain highway into Waterton. The view of the Rockies along the way was outstanding. This road is filled with many hills with one great downhill into Waterton. The only problem is that the wind had picked up and was blowing right into our faces so we did not enjoy what could have been a very fast downhill. After checking in to the Hostel off we went for dinner, pizza. We were all very hungry as it was 6.5 hours since lunch. For some strange reason we did not have snack food on the bike. From this day on we would all carry some snacks with us. Mostly candy bars and gorp.
Waterton Park is surrounded by mountains and sits on Waterton Lake. As with many Canadian towns which are located in the Rockies this town has wonderful old classic hotel.
Day-4
July 12 - Waterton YH to Chain Lakes Campground (near nothing)
Miles ridden 101
This day started with clouds and was cool it ending being a very nice day. Today would be our longest day in miles, 101.1. We headed north to Pincher Creek where we had lunch. Then on to Chain Lakes where we would camp for the night. The last 44 miles were on highway 22 with NO services. I mean nothing at all. We all had some concern about where dinner would be. But we found out, along the way, that Chain Lakes did have a snack bar which is open until 8pm. Yes, it was hamburgers all around. They sure tasted good.
From Waterton north we rode on what is called "The Cowboy Trail." Nestled between the Rocky Mountains and Canadian Prairie is Alberta's high ranching county, home to the historic Cowboy Trail. This 700 km trail winds it's way north through the foothills from Cardston to Mayerthorpe. While our horses had only two legs we did have saddlebags behind the saddle.
Note: again so that I won't have to say it each day here is a shower report. Showers were important to Scott and to me. We would go out of our way to for a hot shower. Here is how successful we were:
7-10 hot shower - East Glacier Hostel
7-11 hot shower - Waterton Hostel
7-12 no shower - Chain Lakes campground (Scott took a cold one in the lake, I did not)
7-13 hot shower - Highwood B & B near the town of Longview
7-14 hot shower - Ribbon Creek Hostel
7-15 hot shower - Banff Hostel
7-16 cold river shower (really just a wash) - Mosquito Creek Hostel
7-17 cold shower for me, others had a warm shower - Beauty Creek Hostel
7-18 no shower - Athabasca Falls Hostel
7-19 hot shower - on the way to the Maligne Hostel we stopped in Jasper at the laundry, which had 2 showers ($2.00)
7-20 no shower - Maligne Hostel
7-21 hot shower - on the way to the Edith Cavell Hostel stopped in Jasper at the laundry, which has two showers ($2.00)
7-22 hot shower - Beauty Creek Hostel
7-23 sauna - while others jumped into the stream I just stood in the rain - Mosquito Creek Hostel
7-24 hot shower - Whiskey Jack Hostel
7-25 hot shower - Whiskey Jack Hostel
7-26 hot shower - Castle Mountain Hostel
7-27 hot shower - Radium Hot Springs Hostel
7-28 hot shower - Springbrook Hostel in the town Skookumchuck
7-29 hot shower - Raging Elk Hostel in the town of Fernie
7-30 hot shower - campground - in the town of Pincher Creek
7-31 hot shower - campground - in the town of Cardston
8-1 hot shower - East Glacier Hostel
That's 18 hot showers, 1 cold shower, 1 river wash, and 3 no shower. Not to bad. Also you can see that we had to camp only 3 times, 1 B & B and 19 Hostels.
Day-5
July 13 - Chain Lakes Campground to Highwood River Inn - B&B; (near Longview)
Miles ridden 40.44
The day started cool but turned very nice before to long. Breakfast was two peanut butter sandwich's as there was no place to eat until we reached Longview, were we had a second breakfast. From Longview we would head west into the area known as "The Kananaskis". The plan was to find a campground close to the Highwood Pass (7239 feet) so that tomorrow's climb over the pass won't be to hard. We were told that this is the highest pass in Canada (highest driving pass).
As we approached the campground a rain shower caught us. Right next to the campground was the Highwood River Inn (B&B;). After a very short chat with the owner, Chris, we decided to stay there. He also offered to cook us dinner (for $10 Canadian). The rooms, Scott and I shared while David and Jim shared, were very nice and clean. The place even had a small movie (video) theater with real movie seats.
The owners had spent many years as entertainers on cruise ships with a magic and dance act. What I found ironic is that while we were staying in this most wonderful place the owners wife and daughter were off camping for the night with some friends.
We set out tents to dry from the night before, took showers, had a very nice dinner and watched the movie "Pleasantville".
Day-6
July 14 - Highwood River Inn to Ribbon Creek YH (near Kananaskis Village)
Miles ridden 72.22
At breakfast Chris told us that Highwood Pass is the highest pass (for cars) in Canada and to be on the lookout for the grizzly bear at the pass. The day was cold and windy but we soon warmed up as we climbed towards the pass some 36 miles away. On the way we met a Swiss couple, Marianne and Edi, who were also touring the Rockies. Almost very day we would met or pass others who were touring by bicycle. Near the top we stopped and had lunch. Soon the pass was insight and there was the Grizz. It was high up on the mountain side and appeared only as a small dot to us. The pass is 7239 feet.
Over the pass we went but due to the headwind we still had to work. Before going to dinner we made a stop at the Hostel to check in. Dinner would be in Kananaskis Village Resort. The Resort was about 2 miles from the hostel but it seemed like light years away. The Resort was full of shops and fine restaurants. We selected a pub, sort of out of the way from the main crowd and went in. The host took one look at us and said "are you looking for something more up scale." I wonder what he saw!! Here we were, just finished riding 72 mile ride over the highest pass in Canada, un-showered, still in our riding cloths (as if we had something else to wear) and with helmet hair. We answered "no, your place will do." Dinner was outside on the deck with a great view all round. I had fish and chips.
After dinner we decided to take a ride up the hill to take a look at Nakiska Ski area. Specifically designed to host the alpine events of the 1988 Calgary Winter Olympics. By the way the place is for sale. On the way to the ski area we would see our first up close bear. There is some debate as to if it was a grizzly or a black bear (I vote for grizzly). Soon the Park Rangers arrived to scare the bear away from the Resort. All in all a very good day.
Day-7
July 15 - Ribbon Creek YH to Banff YH
Miles ridden 72.29
Today we will meet more of the team. The day started cool with some clouds but turned very nice as it developed. The first part of today's ride was on a quiet road but all to soon we made a turn to the west and we on Trans-Canada 1, heading towards Banff. Traffic was moving very heavy in both direction, after all it was Sunday.
When we reached the Hostel I met Melissa, Kitty, Marv, and Ed, all from the Minneapolis area. We also found out that Eva had car problems in North Dakota and will try and join us later. The group was now 8. Some of us headed into town to search for a bank, a Laundromat, the post- office, and most important an ice cream shop. David, Jim, and I then headed for the Gondola which took us high about the city. Boy, what a view as we were 7486 feet above sea level. Later we all had our first dinner together. After a quick spin around the golf course it was back up the hill to the Hostel. Unlike most of the Hostels that we would stay in this one was a big-city Hostel, with 216 beds and young adults running all over the place. The big city Hostels lacked the courtesy, warmth, and fellowship of the smaller Hostels. Back in the 1970's when I first stayed at a Hostel you had to arrive under your own power (hike, bike, canoe, etc.) in order to stay there. Now days it's open to all. I don't have a problem with this as I am sure if the Hostels were not opened to all they would not be here today.
Day-8
July 16 - Banff YH to Mosquito Creek YH (along the Icefields Parkway, Alberta)
Miles ridden 56.19
After breakfast the group headed north with our first stop being Johnson Canyon. We all hiked up this very deep and beautiful canyon with several waterfalls along the way. It was then on to Lake Louise Village for lunch. After lunch we again headed north, within a feet hundred feet Marv had a flat tire, the first of the tour. The nice thing about being in a group is that everyone stops to watch you fix your flat. We were near a gas station so were able to get out of the rain shower.
The flat fixed the group move north again. Ed and I were at the end. Ed began looking at his back wheel. Soon he determined that his freewheel was falling apart (the rear gears coming lose). Ed and I stopped to take a look. I told Ed that I had noticed a pretty good bike shop back at the Lake Louise Village, about 2 or so miles back.. He decided to walk the bike back to see if he could get it fixed while I rode on to tell the others. I caught up with David (who really had stopped and was waiting for us) and told him about Ed's problem. David decided to go back and see if he could help while I went on. I took the food that David was carrying so that he could take Ed's food just in case Ed could not continue. Later that afternoon I found out that where Ed had his problem there was a man fishing who also happened to have a tow-truck. The man gave Ed a free ride back to the bike shop where they fixed the bike. By the time David caught up with Ed the bike was fixed and Ed was heading north once again. Lucky guy that Ed.
When I reach our overnight stay Mosquito Creek YH I saw Jim and Marv working on Kitty's bike. It seem that she had broken one of her gear shift cables and they were trying to fix it. It was not an easy job because Kitty had Shimano STI shift levers (the shifting level is part of the break levers). They did get it to work but not perfectly. Wow, three problems the first day out. By the way I had my Cannondale in the shop for a complete check up about 2 months before I left on this tour. I also put on new tires just before I left..
Scott and I headed down the river to take a cold shower (really just a wash and on my part a pretty poor one at that). There is something scary about standing nude all alone in a stream in the middle of bear country. I kept thinking that a bear would probably just think of me as a big fish, floundering on the stream bank. The day was cool but with some sun and afternoon rain showers. There were no mosquito at Mosquito Creek.
Day-9
July 17 - Mosquito Creek YH to Beauty Creek YH (along the Icefields Parkway)
Miles ridden 77.31
It was a cold and wet start to our ride but soon turned cool and dry. Our overnight would be Beauty Creek YH. A head of us was two passes to get over, Bow Pass (6783 feet) and Sunwapta Pass (6675 feet) before we reach Beauty Creek. At the top of Bow Pass we took a side trip to see Peyto Lake, our first emerald colored lake. Then it was a nice downhill to Saskatchewan River Crossing where we stopped for lunch.
While some ate in the cafeteria, David, Jim, Marv and TOB found a pub where you made your own sandwich or cook you own hamburger. This time through, we would stop again on our way back, we went for the sandwich. It was really soup and sandwich. Yes, we all drained the soup to get all the goodies. My sandwich was a triple decker with ham, beef and turkey in it. No Restaurant owner should let hungry cyclists do their own thing.
One more big climb ahead of us, Sunwapta Pass. What makes this climb so tough is that you can see, way up ahead, where you are going. At the top is the famous Columbia Icefield and the Athabasca Glacier. We stopped at the top for a snack followed by a great downhill (I hit 45mph) to our Hostel. After a cold shower I was ready for a good nights sleep.
Melissa, who does not like fast down hills took the shuttle bus today. The bus runs up and down the Icefields Parkway everyday and stops at almost very Hostel. Mel (as we started to called her) took the bus or got a ride on several other occasions. While I can understand her feelings, I must say that down hills is want makes the uphill worth it. What I always say is:
Uphill is good for the heart,
Downhill is good for the spirit,
But if all you want to do is burn some fat, then just ride the flats.
Beauty Creek YH - For centuries, natives and explorers alike camped alongside the placid waters of Beauty Creek where it flows into Sunwapta River. Descending 1680m (now don't you wish you knew the metric system, , multiply by 3.28 to get feet) through a limestone gorge into the Parkway Valley, the creek feeds a series of eight picturesque waterfalls.
Day-10
July 18 - Beauty Creek YH to Athabasca Falls YH (along the Icefields Parkway)
Miles ridden 34.98
It was raining when we woke, It was raining when we ate breakfast. It was raining when we packed the bikes. It was raining when we hit the road. As I rode along I found I could not get warm. There was no hills to climb. The wind was in our faces. The rain kept coming.
For three weeks before I left for this tour I looked every day in the newspaper for the weather in this area. It did show some rain but always a warm rain. I know realize that the weather for Calgary in no way reflects the weather for the Rockies. If the newspapers were smart they would give the weather for vacation places (like Banff, Jasper, Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, Etc.) and not for just the closest big city. Today was COLD and I was COLD. Based on what I read in the newspaper I down-graded my rain gear that I would take on this tour, big mistake. In stead of my super Burly rain jacket I took my old rain jacket. I left my foot covers at home as well as my wool mittens. I was able to put on three layers which work all the other days but not today. Did I say I was COLD. To make things worse my rain jacket spring a leak. Did I say I was COLD and now wet.
When I finally reached our lunch stop, Sunwapta Falls, the others were having their lunch. I walked right pass them and straight to the souvenir part of this complex. The lady asked if she could help me and I said "yes." "I would like another layer" I told her and it must be waterproof. She brought out a coat that said it was waterproof and I said "sold." No, I did not ask the price. After all what good is money if I freeze to death. The jacket, actual a parka, is made of waterproof and breathable micro fiber with a zip-out Sherpa fleece liner. When I went to sign the VISA slip I could not get my hand to write my name, did I say I was COLD. I put on the Jacket and returned to the restaurant were my new jacket was affectionately named "the big coat." I was now warm and stayed warm for the rest of the tour.
The rain had stopped by now. I think it was afraid of "the big coat." Kitty, who was also very cold, had talked a Royal Canadian Mounted Policeman into driving her and her bike into Jasper where she would spend the night in a motel. We would meet back up with her the next day. Our overnight would be at the Athabasca Falls YH.
After getting settled in the Hostel we walked over to look at Athabasca Falls. We could view the thundering falls from close-up viewpoints. In fact you could get close enough to get very wet from the spray. It was quite a day.
Athabasca Falls, one of the most spectacular sights on the Athabasca River system, the falls have changed very little since the first Europeans viewed it's splendor nearly 200 years ago. The step in the valley floor was formed by the glacier that once occupied the Athabasca Valley. This narrow gorge of quartz and sandstone is cut back only a few millimeters each year by the rushing water.
Day-11
July 19 -Athabasca Falls YH to Maligne Canyon YH (near Jasper)
Miles ridden 28.21
Today was the usual mixture, cold and rain and sun and nice. Don't be fooled by what I say about the weather, it's all part of bicycle touring. You take what comes your way. This area of Canada is so beautify that you almost forget about the weather. Around every corner there is something new to see. As for wildlife we saw 5 bears (grizzly & black), elk, moose, goats, rocky mountain big horn sheep, a pine martin, a fox, and all the other more normal animals. This is really one of the top bicycling areas in North America.
Instead of taking the main highway 93 we took highway 93A. It's a little hillier but has less traffic. David loves his back-roads or as Canada calls then "secondary roads." We were not to far down the road when the cry went out "bear on the right." Sure enough there was a black bear having his breakfast. We all stopped to take a look and a picture. I adopted my bear policy, which is, I always keep one of the more younger and tender riders between me and the bear.
This days ride would be short so that laundry could be done in Jasper. Arriving in Jasper we found the Laundromat which also had showers available for $2.00 for ten minutes of hot water. Soon everything was clean as well as ourselves. Now it was time for food. First stop was a small hippy type cafe which advertised that they give a 15% discount to International Youth Hostels members. David ordered first and when he went to pay (he did not mention the discount) they charged him more than the posted price. He asked why. They said the price was wrong and they just never got around to changing it. Now that is no way to do business, is it. The owner stormed off for the back room saying "give it to him."
It was now 11:55am and they stop serving breakfast at noon. We had plenty of time to order. I was next to order and I ordered breakfast. The cook (yes, this place was so small that the cook was right in front of us) said "no more breakfast, I am tired of cooking breakfast." I immediately thought of the "Soup Nazi" on the Jerry SeinFeld TV show. While the others stayed Scott and I left and found a very nice restaurant down the block. While the others sat on stool around a small half table next to the wall, we had nice chairs, a round table, in the garden room, with windows all around. Our food was great the service was great and the coffee was wonderful.
Scott decided to head for home today, one day early than he had planned. In this way he could meet his wife in Vancouver, BC thus saving her the drive to Jasper. We went to the train station to see Scott off. We were sorry to see Scott go as he is a great riding partner.
Now it was up the hill to our overnight stay, Maligne Canyon YH. The Warden (that is what they call the person who cares for the Hostel) informed us that there was no refrigerator due to a bear attack. It seems that the bear crushed through the window and tore the refrigerator apart about a month ago. A new refrigerator is on it's way. Dinner tonight was tacos made by Marv and Ed. Clean-up was done by Jim (washer) and TOB (drier). Marv and Ed used EVERY pot, pan, dish and bowl in the place. Yes, we had a BIG MESS to clean up.
Maligne Canyon, meaning "wicked" in French, the name Maligne was given to this thundering white-water canyon by a Flemish Jesuit missionary in 1845. Truly an appropriate epithet for this relentless water system which has for thousands of years cut progressively deeper into the earth.
Day-12
July 20 - Stayed second night at Maligne Canyon YH
Miles ridden 63.50
Today is a day off so why not make it a "Postman's Holiday" and go for a ride. David, Marv, Jim and TOB headed 24 miles up the hill to Maligne Lake, the others went hiking. On the way we rode pass Medicine Lake. The day started dry but the time we reach Maligne Lake it was raining and we were wet. We parked to bike and went into the restaurant for lunch. This restaurant is cafeteria style with good food and a great view of this very beautify lake.
We had agreed to meet Kitty, who was doing the grocery shopping for the day, in Jasper and help carry her (on the bikes) food back up the hill to the Hostel. So we had to leave the warm restaurant and head downhill for Jasper. Yes, it was still raining but stopped about half way down. Upon reaching Jasper we found Kitty who had was just finishing up the shopping and had decided to take a cab back to the Hostel. The four of us decided to take another one of David's wonderful back roads to the Hostel.
Lets talk a little bit about our meals. Of course lunches were on the road and you paid for it yourself. Breakfasts and dinners were a group effort and we all paid an estimated amount in advance of the tour. Each day someone would be a signed as cook. They would decided what we would have for the other two meals. They would also do the shopping. Most of the time the shopping was done sometime after lunch. There were not a lot of super markets along the way so frequently the menu had to be adjusted to what was available. We would than all carry some part of our groceries to the Hostel. Others would be a signed to clean up after the meal.
I did not keep track of what we ate and now it all seems to blend together. I do remember Marv's wonderful French Toast also the great spaghetti with MEAT sauce we had at Whiskey Jack. Due to some of our group being vegetarians some meals went meatless. I am a picky eater but I never went hungry. I did lose 4 pounds but I must say when you work as hard as we did there is no way you can eat enough to maintain your weight. On my coast-to-coast tour in 1998 I lost 15 pound in the 10 weeks. In both cases I did not feel weak or run down from the weight loss.
Day-13
July 21 - Maligne Canyon YH to Mount Edith Cavell YH (near Jasper)
Miles ridden 25.58
We woke to rain but it soon stopped and did not start again until I was about one mile from our over night stay. We made another stop at the Laundromat in Jasper for a shower, bought our groceries and headed up to the Hostel.
The final 8 miles up hill to the Hostel was on a very rough road with lots of potholes. At one pothole a truck could not wait for me to clear it and went splashing through covering me and my bike with a mixture of water and sand. My chain did not like this mixture and it took several washing, using my water bottle, and a fresh coat of oil to make it happy again.
With the rain coming to a halt I headed to the roads end to get a better look at the mountain and the glacier. You guess it, it started to rain again so I headed back to the Hostel. The views of the towering mountain that surround the Hostel were outstanding. What a place. I could have stayed there for a week just looking at the surrounding mountains. Some of our group hiked up to the base of the glacier, they saw several avalanches high up on the mountain. David cooked his famous "salsa chicken, for dinner, which most of us enjoyed (not the vegetarians).
Mount Edith Cavell, The 11031 foot peak of Mt. Edith Cavell towers over every mountain in the Jasper National Park. In a cirque valley on the Northeast slope of the mountain is the famous Angle Glacier, suspended as if in full flight with it's huge icy wings outstretched. In a narrow valley below is our Hostel. The brilliant colors of the Cavell Meadows and the turquoise waters of the lake below are only a few of the wonderful sites.
Day-14
July 22 - Mount Edith Cavell YH to Beauty Creek YH (along the Icefields Parkway)
Miles ridden 54.44
Today was cool with some light rain to start. It turn very nice in the afternoon. The 8 mile down hill ride from Mount Edith Cavell YH was slow and taxing, due to the poor condition of the road. Melissa talked the Warden into taking her to the bottom of the hill. Soon we were on a nice back road. We rode passed Athabasca Falls and stopped at Sunwapta Falls for lunch.
We were getting close to our overnight stay when Ed blew a tire (not just a flat tire). Those who were near him stopped to help. The tire was booted and on we went. The same tire blew again at the boot. Ed walked the bike the last quarter mile or so to our over night stay. Ed needed a new tire and from the look of his other tire, both could use replacing. So here is the plan (by the way there were all kinds of ideas but this plan won out over the others).
Ed called a bike shop in Jasper and bought two tires. The bike shop would take them to the Hostel in Jasper. The daily Hostel shuttle would pick them tomorrow on their run between the Hostels. Melissa had decided to take the shuttle tomorrow instead of riding as there would be a great down hill tomorrow so she let Ed ride her bike. When the shuttle picked up Melissa they would give her Ed's tires. Wow, what a plan and it worked great.
At the Hostel we met a husband and wife team who were the Warders. They were off when we first passed this way. I was barely off the bike when the man said "who want's a hot shower." Did I hear right (if you remember right I had a cold shower the last time)!! He had hot water on the stove and was ready to pour it in the container that supplied the water to the out door shower. What a very nice surprise, never turn down a hot shower.
This couple took over this Hostel last year, when it was about to be closed. They was said that the previous Warden was not well liked and did not treat his customers very good. Any case these new Wardens have turned the place around and the governing YH body has decided to keep the place open. Not only did they provide hot showers but also cooked an all you can eat pancake breakfast in the morning. Sure there was a fee but it was just nice to have someone willing to make the day little nicer. He also roasted marshmallows over the open fire that evening for everyone who wanted one. I could just tell that they liked there work.
Day-15
July 23 - Beauty Creek YH to Mosquito Creek YH (along the Icefields Parkway)
Miles ridden 76.0
When I awoke I could smell the pancakes cooking. As I sat down at the big table in the kitchen a cup of coffee was there waiting for me. Soon unlimited pancakes started to arrive. By the way they also had real maple syrup.
The day started clear and cold and soon turned warm and sunny. This would be one of the hardest days of the tour as we had two passes to climb (Bow Pass -6783 feet and Sunwapta Pass - 6675 feet). Both of these passes we had already climb, but from the other direction. Previously when we did Bow Pass we had done a most of it the day before. Sunwapta Pass which was suppose to be the hardest turned out to be pretty easy. I am sure that was do to us doing the climb early in the day. Bow Pass was a workout as it was towards the end of the day. But as hard as Bow Pass seemed at the time once you reach the top you would forget just how hard it was and you start looking forward to the down-hill.
Between the two passes was our lunch stop, Saskatchewan River Crossing where we stopped before. This time everyone went to the pub. Several of us cooked our own hamburger over the open fire. Yes, it was good. I did not have to have it over cooked it as some many places do now days. We stood there and watched David's hamburger drop into the fire and him trying to salvage the pieces. He was mostly successful.
It was a nice downhill run to the Hostel. There I met Eva, the last of group. She had car problems and was late joining the tour. He bike was more on the road-racing type rather than road-touring. Do to the higher gearing she worked hard on the hills. Also there was Melissa with Ed's new tires.
This Hostel had no showers and the last time I went down stream for a wash. But the do have a sauna which was fired up and ready to go. Some of the people who were staying at the Hostel convinced me to try the sauna. They said that you will be cleaned from the inside out. Since I was covered with suntan lotion and salt (from sweating) I thought I would give the sauna a shot. I would sit in the sauna for about 20 minutes and then stand out in the rain to cool off. I would also whip myself down with paper towels. Others would run and just into the river. It did work as I did feel much cleaned but not as good as hot shower with soap.
Day-16
July 24 - Mosquito Creek YH to Whiskey Jack YH (Yoho Valley, British Columbia)
Miles ridden 41.19
It was raining when we woke. Everyone waited until the rain stopped before heading out. There was an occasional shower but I did not get wet. We would cross the Continental Divided into British Columbia and stop at the town of Field to buy two days worth of food. Then it would be a good 8 mile climb to the Whiskey Jack YH in the Yoho Valley.
After a nice downhill we made a right turn onto Trans-Canada Highway 1 and headed for Field. Just below Kicking Horse Pass (5402 feet) we stopped for lunch. It would be an easy day so we had a leisurely lunch. We also stopped to look at the Spiral Tunnel of the Canadian Pacific Railway. There are two Spiral Tunnels, lower and upper, to get the train over the pass.
After another very great downhill and we were at the town of Field. As the team shopped for supplies in a small store I wonder just how hard it would be to carry two days worth of food up this rather steep 8 mile hill. Since we were only 5 due to 3 members of the team already on their way up the canyon. Melissa went to work and found a couple, with a van, who were headed up the canyon, they agreed to carry our food and drop it off at the Hostel. Thanks, Melissa and the couple who carried our food.
The climbing started slow but soon turned steep with three switch-backs. Then it was up and down until we reached the Hostel. Before we could see the Hostel we could see the reason most people drive up this road. There it was the magnificent Takakkaw Falls. In spite of the hard work it was a very beautiful climb.
Takakkaw Falls ("magnificent" in the Cree language) drops 1265 feet in all, it's highest sheer fall being 833 feet, making it one of the highest falls in Canada. It really is a spectacular water fall.
As we pulled into the Hostel there was Olga, the Warden of 23 years, waiting for us. Really waiting for David who she treated like her long lost son. David and his family have stayed in the Hostel on several occasions. After hugs all around she put on a pot of tea for us. This is a first class Hostel with, hot showers, flush toilets, sinks with hot and cold running water, and a very nice and safe place to store the bikes.
While dinner was being prepared I walked out on the deck and talked to a man who was BBQing two very nice steaks. We chatted for a while and I told him about some of our meals being meatless. Soon our dinner was ready. As I went to sit down at our table the man with the steaks cut off a nice piece and gave it to me. I could have given him a big hug, but I did not.
After dinner we all hiked over to see the falls up close. So close you could get very wet from the spray. It was time for bed and I had a great view of the falls from my bunk to fall asleep to. Another great day.
Day-17
July 25 - Stay second night at Whiskey Jack YH
Miles ridden 0
Today was cloudy and cool, but dry. Everyone, except TOB, went for a 10.5 mile hike on the Ice Line Trail which went up the side of the canyon and then along the ridge. The report was that they had great view down and across the valley. I went for a short 4 mile hike on the canyon floor which was far less spectacular. David wanted to surprise everyone at dinner with a candy bar. I told him I would go to town a buy the candy bars while they were hiking. After my hike I sat on the porch of the Hostel trying to decide if I should ride the bike down or hitchhike down. After talking to Olga hitchhiking won out. She said it would be easy to get a ride. She was right. It took me only 30 minutes to catch a ride down and to get down to the store. I purchased the candy bars and stuck my thumb out to get back up the hill. It took 50 minutes to make the trip back up to the Hostel.
When the others returned from their hike they looked good but a little on the tired side. It was quite an accomplishment considering none of them had done much hiking recently and did not have hiking boots. They would feel the hike in their legs for the next several days. While it did not hurt their riding, different mussels, when they would walk they felt it. Today Ed left us for home, now we were 7.
Tonight we would eat like kings. The guys cooked and we had spaghetti with meat sauce. It was not just meat sauce but MEAT sauce. Boy was it good tasting. Olga baked same banana bread and a cobbler for us. It was very tasty. We invited her to have dinner with us.
Day-18
July 26 - Whiskey Jack YH to Castle Mountain. YH (between Lake Louise and Banff)
Miles ridden 51.70
The day started on the cool side with some clouds but turned sunny and warm. A great day. We retraced our route on Trans-Canada Highway. Just over the pass the cry went out again "bear on the left". It was a black bear having it's breakfast just a few feet off the road. Marv who wanted a picture crossed the road to get closer. The bear looked at him several times as if to say "you have come close enough." We, the rest of the team, were saying the same thing. When ever a bear or for that matter any wild life is spotted it does not take long for cars and buses to stop and everyone to start taking pictures.
Near the top we took Trans-Canada Highway 1A a very nice a peaceful back road. If you are driving you can't take this road form the West end and it is barricaded. It is open from the East end. Again we crosses the Continental Divided into Alberta. On the Divided there was a stream that split into Atlantic and Pacific Ocean-bound branches. What a weird sight. I tried to take a picture but soon realized that no angel would show what I wanted to show.
This back road took us to within a short climb to Lake Louise. Speaking of beautiful places this is it. This world famous lake has it all. Glacial blue lake, towering mountains, green forest, and snow-white glaciers. We left this wonderful place and had a screaming downhill into Lake Louise Village, for what else but food. We were told that the Lake Louise Hostel served great food. They were right and to boot you could get breakfast until 2pm. We also did some laundry.
After lunch/breakfast we continued heading south towards Banff. Our overnight stay would be at the Castle Mountain YH just a few mile from Banff. The next day four of the group would head for Banff and the end of the official tour while three of us would continue on towards East Glacier in Montana. Again we were riding on the very nice secondary road (Trans-Canada Highway 1A). The road rolled up and down but mostly down with great views of the Bow River below us.
David thought it would be nice to have our last dinner out and together, the team agreed. He gave everyone $20 for dinner from the group money that was left. It was another 6 miles or so from the YH to the Johnston Canyon restaurant. After a very nice final dinner we headed back to the Hostel. The ride back was very enjoyable, the stomach was full, the air was cool, the road was almost car/truck free and the sun was just thinking about setting over the mountains to the West.
The guys stopped at a market near our Hostel to pickup food for breakfast. Since none of the vegetarians were with us we bought a dozen eggs and a pound of bacon. Boy what a great day.
Day-19
July 27 - Castle Mountain. YH to Radium Hot Springs YH (British Columbia)
Miles ridden 67.82
The day went from cool and sunny to hot and sunny. Breakfast was great although not all enjoyed the BIG pile of bacon that was on the table. All to soon it was time to say our good-bye's to Kitty, Melissa, and Eva. Marv would head for Banff, with them, to get his truck and then join us for one last day.
David, Jim and TOB headed West and then Southwest for Radium Hot Springs. We climb over three passes of which two were significant (Vermilion Pass (5415 feet) - (Continental Divide - back into British Columbia) and Sinclair Pass (4874 feet). We left Banff National Park and went into Kootenay National Park. After the first pass we made a stop at Marble Canyon.
Marble Canyon, trail bridges cross narrow limestone gorge with a glacial blue creek flowing below.
Along this whole 68 miles there was one place to eat, Vermillion Village. The restaurant was not open yet so I settled for a hot-dog and some chocolate milk at a little store. Yes, by the time I got to the top of Sinclair Pass I would feel the lack of food. We did stop about half way between the hot-dog and the pass for a candy bar. I eat two Snickers.
Just as we reached the start of the climb over Sinclair Pass there was Marv. He had driven and parked his truck at the Radium Hot Springs YH, rode his bike up the 8% hill and down the other side to meet us. I ground my way to the top of the pass and there I feast on my last snack, a bag of peanuts. Now it was downhill time. Boy, what a great downhill. When we hit Radium Hot Springs it was HOT. While riding only 68 miles we did cross, or cut through, three valleys. The snow capped mountain were gone. We were in a more open country with an arid feel to it. The actual "Hot Springs" was back up the road that we came down and I only got a glimpse as I flew by. It was very crowded.
Our cooking days were now over so the four of us jumped into Marv's truck and headed the half mile into town for dinner at Brandi's restaurant. After dinner it was ice cream time, so we headed for Screamers. My two favorite ice cream flavors, on this tour, were Huckleberry and a mixture of vanilla and orange sherbet. Scott's favorite was a chocolate shake made with chocolate ice cream. By the way this small town of 500 has 27 motels/hotels and more than 10 golf courses. Do you know how to spell "Tourist Trap."
The prices in restaurants and in stores for groceries were about the same as in the USA. The only thing is that the Canadian dollar has a value of about .6 of our dollar. So when I would pay $7.00 for breakfast in Canada it would be cost about $4.20 in our money. Even our one B&B; was only $55 (per person) Canadian or about $33 American and that was for the room (two persons per room), dinner and breakfast. Our Hostels ran between $13 and $21 Canadian. If you were not a member of the American Youth Hostels it would cost you $5 more.
Day-20
July 28 - Radium Hot Springs YH to Springbrook YH, (in the town of Skookumchuck)
Miles ridden 61.00
The day dawned with some scattered clouds that stayed until the late afternoon. There was one shower during the afternoon that got me wet but I dried out fast. Breakfast was at Smitty's. Smitty's is a chain in Canada. I did find it interesting that EVERY egg that I had in Canada had a light yellow yoke while in the USA they are Orange. If anyone knows why this is so please let me know.
We said our good-bye's to Marv who was going to head South and do some truck touring. Marv was a great guy and always made sure that I had a bottom bunk (I preferred the bottom due to my left hip reconstruction), thanks. He also cooked the best French Toast. You could count on Marv.
Now there were three, Jim, David and TOB. As we rode along we all said that we needed an easy day. So far the weather cooperated with a tailwind and the road did also, as we were going down stream. After a short ways we took a secondary road that the Warden had suggested. We crossed over from the East side of the lake and rode down the West side of Windermere Lake. This was a peaceful road with the only thing to watch out for were small herds of cows standing in the middle or the road.
The wind switch and was now a headwind. When we reach the end of this road and got back on the main road the wind was strong and in our faces. So much for an easy day. Lunch was in the town of Canal Flats.
Canal Flats, is located at the Southern end of Columbia Lake. Columbia Lake is the source of the Columbia River which empties into the Pacific Ocean at Astoria Oregon. What is odd is that the river first flows north and then makes a big turn to the south and on to Pacific.
The wind was relentless. On the positive side the wind dried me very fast from the one shower that got me. My average speed for the day was 9.0 mph. As I crested a hill there was the town of Skookumchuck what a nice sight it was. David and Jim were already there and had scooped out the Hostel.
In the town of Skookumchuck is the Springbrook RV Park which has one little log cabin set up as the Hostel. This Hostel turned out to be one of the best due to, being very clean, a nice porch for a bikes, well lighted, a family of rabbits that lived under it, a restaurant right across the highway, hot showers and we had it all to ourselves. As I fell asleep I wonder if the wind would continue tomorrow. If so the 90 miles planned for tomorrow could take us 10 hours.
Skookumchuck is an Indian word meaning "meeting of the big waters" and it is here that the Lussier and Skookumchuck Rivers flow into the beautiful Kootenay River.
Day-21
July 29 - Springbrook YH to Raging Elk YH, (in Fernie)
Miles ridden 90.00
This day started with sun and some scattered clouds. Just like yesterday there was one shower in the afternoon that got me. As we rode out of Skookumchuck there was some wind but it never fully developed as it did yesterday. Breakfast was down the road in the town of Wasa. We were now following the Kootenay River. A short stop was made in Fort Steele Heritage Village.
Fort Steele and Fort Steele Heritage Village, founded during the 1864 Kootenay gold rush, it was known then as Galbraith's Ferry, became the site of the first North West Mounted Police west of the Rockies. In 1888 the settlement's name was changed to honor police superintendent Samuel Steele, who peacefully settled tensions between European settlers and the Ktunaxa people. The Village has 60 restored, reconstructed or original buildings. When we reached the town of Elko we had a decision to make. Should we head South for the USA and go through Whitefish to get to East Glacier or should we head North through Fernie and go over Crowsnest Pass (4579 feet) and then work our way East and then head South to East Glacier. Since we had the time we decided to head North. It was a very good decision as you will see.
By going North we began the slow and steady climb towards Crowsnest Pass and rode upstream along the Elk River. It was a very beautiful ride through the canyon. When I reach Fernie I realized that this was no small town, pop. 4900. Our over night would be at The Raging Elk YH. If you ever visit Fernie and stay at The Raging Elk you will find they have a 5 day plan all laid out for you.
The Raging Elk 5 day plan:
Day-1 Climb 8000 foot Mount Hosmer.
Day-2 Run the rapids on the Elk or Bull River.
Day-3 Hang on for some of the most exciting mountain bike riding in the region.
Day-4 Chill out! Stroll along Fernie's quaint tree-lined streets, have a coffee, write a card or two, or lay on the Elk's sun deck and make some new friends.
Day-5 Spend it on horseback, heading into the back country for spectacular views, rugged terrain, and the best chance to catch sight of the abundant wild life.
As for us the only plan was a hot shower, dinner and some ice cream. As a special surprise we found our shower in our room. We did a quick tour of the town and located a restaurant and the ice cream shop. The ice cream was a very good deal with the cost being only $1.00 (about $0.60 US) for a scoop. It was a good size scoop at that. Another great day.
The Raging Elk Hostel, a couple took over the Sundowner Motel and Hostel and revamped it into the Raging Elk Hostel, a year round adventure base camp for travelers and adventures alike. This Hostel looks, on the outside, like a huge warehouse. Inside it's maze of rooms (mostly public rooms and not the rooms that you sleep in) which are painted with a wide selection of colors and designs. There a very large kitchen and a TV/video room with a dozen couches of various designs and colors to sit on. It's a very interesting place.
Day-22
July 30 - Raging Elk YH to Pincher Creek Campground, Alberta
Miles ridden 82.90
This day was clear and cold to start but warmed up very nicely. There was some rain after we were in for the day and had the tents set up. We continued heading North to the town of Sparwood. Now what do you think we found in this town? We found the largest truck in the world.
We also found a store and loaded up on snacks, as we were not sure just where or when our next meal would be. We then continued the climb towards Crowsnest Pass. We stopped to look down on a nice lake and realized that we were on the top of the pass. We crossed the Continental Divide for the forth and last time on this tour and were now back in Alberta. This was the easiest pass we had to climb or maybe we just got tough. The downhill side was nice but not a screamer. We found a very good bakery and Cafe, "Cinnamon Bear" for lunch. After lunch we continued going East on Highway 3 towards Pincher Creek our overnight. In this area is the Frank Slide Interpretive Center. This is the site of the 1903 catastrophic rockslide. We rode through the rockslide area as it was cleared for Hwy 3 to get through. We could look up on the side of the mountain and see were all this rock came from. This was ONE BIG slide.
Highway 3 is a major route for cars and trucks, it has a pretty good shoulder and is mostly flat. As we rode along David talked about a taking a secondary road that another cyclist had suggested. David said that this secondary road should be quiet and peaceful. We made a right tour on to road 507. David in front and Jim and I just behind. At that moment a Corvette also made a screaming right turn and driver put the pedal to the metal. The Vet went flying by David. Jim and I broke out into laugher, so much for this quiet and peaceful road. About 3 miles down this road we rode pass the Corvette which was parked on the side of the road with the hood up.
After the Corvette the road turned very nice. Yes, there were more hills than on the main highway but it was worth it. This is farm land and very beautiful. If I can quote Jim, "Riding on Hwy 507 into Pincher Creek, another incredible, indescribable and beautiful biking for me. There were large rolling hills with deep green and bright yellow fields all around, blue sky with big white fluffy clouds overhead and the blue mountains in the background. We rode by an old one-room country schoolhouse and I thought of the country school I went to." I Agree.
We pulled into Pincher Creek and found the campground. The Sheriff drove by and stopped to tell us if we have a problems just give him a call. He motioned to the back seat where he had to very tough looking men. It seems that some of the Indians leave the reservation and come into town and hang around the campground hitting campers up the money and cigarettes. I went over to talk to the campground host who said there is not really any problem and the Indians never have hurt any one or taken anything that did not belong to them.
After setting up our tents we went off to explore the town and to find dinner. After dinner we went for an ice cream then off to bed. This was only our second time we used our tents on this tour. My tent is set up so that I can get everything I have with me inside of it. Yes, that includes my bike. I will tell you it's really nice to know that everything you own and depend on is safe and dry. David also is able to get his bike in his tent.
Day-23
July 31 - Pincher Creek Campground to Cardston Campground
Miles ridden 63.5
We had some rain during the night so we packed our tents wet. Breakfast was at a restaurant out on the highway. As I looked out the restaurant window I saw a car with Minnesota license plates drive up. When the couple walked into the restaurant I said, to them, "these two guys are also from Minnesota," meaning David and Jim. The man said "yes, and I know Jim." Another case of a small world. The man, Ron, is the Minnesota Department of Transportation State Geometric Engineer and works with Jim. He and his wife were on their way to visit friends who live out on Highway 507. They have a llama ranch out there, which we rode by yesterday.
We were about half a mile out of town when we realized that we missed the road we wanted. We could see the road off to our left and right below us. Both roads would have gotten us to East Glacier but we had decided to go through Cardston and not back through Waterton the way we came up. Two of us (David and TOB) turned around and headed back to get on the right road while Jim decided to "bush whack" it. David and I found the road easily, it was in the middle of town and not just out of town out of town as the had map shown. Jim on the other hand was hiking thru a farm field and climbing over two fences with the bike to get to the correct road. These are the things that makes a normal day an adventure. Good going Jim.
We would ride a series of back road, 507 - 810 - 505 and them south on Highway 2 into Cardston. The weather was cool and cloudy with same scattered showers. We made a short shop in Glenwood for a snack. Glenwood is one of the many towns that we went through that is reflective of rural Canada/America. One street which is named "Main Street" and is paved. A small store, a place to eat, a local museum, and a few other businesses. We bought our snacks, chatted with the lady in the store, found some cover, as there were some showers in the area, and sat down to enjoy our snacks. It's really wonderful to spend a little time in these towns talking to the locals and watching the world go by.
As usual we went off to explore town and find a place for dinner. By mid-afternoon the weather had turned nice. Cardston is the birthplace of the movie actress Fay Wray. The town has a nice park with some pictures and a plaque honoring her. We found the perfect place for dinner, "Pizzas & Cream." with a "back to the 50's" theme. Just what we were looking for pizza and ice cream and in the same place. Their card business reads, "Cardston Only Hard Licker Store."
I found more coins (11) on the streets of Cardston than on the streets of any other town on this tour. As I crawled into my sleeping bag, it began to sink in that tomorrow was our last day.
Day-24
August 1 - Cardston Campground to East Glacier YH, Montana
Miles ridden 81.58
Our last day dawned with sunny skies and on the cold side. We hit the road and were soon crossing back into the USA at the Port of Piegan. I went into the Canadian Border station to apply for the "Tax Refund for Visitors to Canada." The rules are, each recipe must be over $50 and you must have a total of all recipes of over $200. I had two recipes that met these requirements, the one for my "big coat" and the one for our B&B.; I was lucky and payed the whole amount for the B&B; with my VISA, the others gave me their share so I could have some Canadian money. I will get back about $40.00. If we were smart we would have lumped more of our individual expenses together.
The wind had picked up and was in our faces, what else is new. After a stop in Babb for a snack we continued on to Saint Mary for lunch. All that was left for us to reach East Glacier was 30 miles of rolling hills, sure some pretty good climbs but the wind had died down. After 18 miles we stopped at Kiowa for a snack. The man and wife who were the owners of the store were on the grumpy side. They did not want us to lean our bikes up against their building. Little did the know just how much we all cared for our bikes and always took care just how and where we left them. Also when I want to throw away our trash they wanted me to take it out to their big dumpster in stead of using the trash can that was right next to me. I'll let you can guess where I put the trash.
Now it was time for our last 12 miles, with a 4.5 mile, 1000 foot climb and then a nice downhill into East Glacier, or we thought so. Just as we started up the hill a police car, with it siren blaring blocked our road. There was a forest fire and no one could pass. We saw the smoke from afar but it did not look like it was in our path. To make a long story short we were told the only way we could get to East Glacier was to head East to Browning (12 miles) and then head West (12 miles) on Highway 2 to East Glacier. So that is what we did.
The ride to Browning was fast as I don't think I was every was under 20mph. That should have told me something and it did. In Browning we made our turn onto Highway 2 and I immediately dropped to 6mph. What a headwind and to made things worse the highway had rumble strips that trapped you between them and the road shoulder. Where we were riding was not very wide and was full of glass. The three of us had our different methods of dealing with this problem.
David, just got mad and did not accept the wind. He avoid the glass by riding mostly to the left of the rumble strips. He was the first to get to E.G.
Jim, just got mad, rode over the glass and fought the wind. He was the second to arrive in E.G.
TOB, just go mad. I stayed to the right on the rumbles strips and tried to avoid the glass. I also stopped for every coin that I saw, of which there were 14, that gave me a small break. I was the last one in. It took me a little over 2 hours to go the 12 miles.
Note: "mad" is not really the right word as how do you get mad at the wind. Wind is a fact of life when you ride a bike.
We found out that the fire never did not reach the road and the police opened the road at 7:30pm. Of course that would have been kind of late for us. Any case, as usual, the minute you finish something like what we just went through you tend to forget all about it, and we did.
We checked into the YH and found that there was a big group of girl scouts also staying there. The Warden switched the dorms around, boys in the girls and girls in the boys. The boys had more bunks. So we got the dorm with all the fancy quilts and pillow cases. We hung all our wet stuff, tents, flies, and what every was wet on the cloths line to dry (wet from last night). David also check with the Amtrak station to be sure they had bike boxes. They not only did but had free ones (been used once). David even got his original box, the one he used to get to E.G.
Time for dinner. We went to the same place we had eaten at the start of this tour and I had the same thing. Their roasted turkey dinner, with stuffing and cranberry jelly. Then it was back to the YH for a hot shower and bed. A great day even through it was challenging.
Day-25
August 2 - East Glacier YH to Portland, Oregon
Miles ridden 3.66
David and Jim's train left around 10am and my train was scheduled to leave around 7pm. I went with them to the train station and watched them pack their bikes. We than went to have breakfast. David and Jim did some shopping for train snacks. All to soon it was time to say goodbye. With hugs all around and the thoughts that we need to get together again for another tour then they were gone. It felt strange to be alone.
Jim was a steady rider and a good partner. He was very compatible with the group. David always looked out for me (waited when I got behind), he is my friend, what more can I say. Thanks, David for a great tour.
When Scott and I toured East Glacier some 4 weeks ago I notice that the East Glacier Lodge, which was as a magnificent lodge as there is, and named in the Top 10 Historic Places to stay in National Parks by USA Today, had a little pitch and putt golf course. There were 9 holes with distances from 34 yards to 64 yards, and par was 27, my kind of course. You could play as many rounds as you wanted for $5.00 and that included a logo golf ball for you to keep. I played 3 rounds with scores of 33, 29, and 27. The 27 was not quite fair and I used 3 balls and took the best score of the three. It sure was fun. I then went for lunch and shopping for a t-shirt. I found a nice t-shirt that said "Going to the Sun, Glacier Park." It also had a picture with 4 bicycle rides going up and down hills, silhouetted against a great sunset.
At 5:30pm the train station opened again, this time for the West bound train. I packed my bike and sat down to waited. The two ladies who run this station, one had been with the system for 40 years, told me that my train was going to be one hour late. When you think about it a train can never be early it can only be on time or late as it can't leave a station before it's schedule time of departure. The time passe very fast as the other lady used to live in Vancouver Washington and was a runner. She had done, as I have done, many of the local runs in our area, included Hood-to- Coast.
The train arrived one hour late. As it pulled out form the station I look out the window and saw no other bike riders Then there was none.
Day-26
August 3 - The trip home
Miles ridden 0.00
Since they split the train in Spokane, WA. were assigned to a car that would end up going to Portland and not to Seattle. After the stop was made in Whitefish, MT. to let off passages our part of the train was almost empty. Most of the trip home was at night so there was not a lot to see. On my previous trips on a train I did not sleep at all but this time I had two seats, six pillows and my sleeping bag. It was not a good sleep but the time did pass.
My plan was, once I reach Portland, to ride home as I had ridden to the station. About 50 miles from Portland I could see that it was raining. When I got off the train it was raining hard. I got my bike, unpacked it, put it back together and looked out of the station, it was still raining hard. Over the last several days I worked on my bike to get it as clean as possible and did not want to get it all dirty again. So I called Lois (my wife) to come and get me. By the time Lois arrived the rain had stopped for the day.
We stopped for breakfast and I chatted about the tour. No matter how hard I tried I could not express just how great this tour was. Some hardships, yes, but that is want binds you to one another. Beautiful scenery, without a doubt. Great fun, absolutely. Some weather problems, yes, but that is what touring is all about. You make to most and best of it.
I am sure I have left so many stories out but as you can tell this trip report is already long enough as is (this report was first a series of e-mails). I thank you all for your comments. As I think of thing I will add them to my website, so if you want more please check it out every once in awhile, at:
http://www.geocities.com/tomo105154
Also there are pictures on the site. Now as I always do I will leave you with some stats.
Stats:
Total miles ridden = 1363
Total time in the saddle = 121 hours and 50 minutes
Average miles per day 57 miles (includes one day of only 3.6 miles)
Average speed = 11.18mph
Longest day in miles = 101.1
Shortest day in miles = 3.66
Longest day in the saddle = 8 hours and 35 minutes
My highest max speed = 45mph (David hit 52)
Flat tires = 0
Bike problems = 0
Best French Toast = Marv's
Nicest man = the one who gave me part of his steak.
Weight Loss = 4lbs.
Passes crossed and major hills climbed
Chief Mountain Road (not an official pass, but it sure felt like one)
Highwood Pass (7239 feet)
Bow Pass - North bound (6783 feet)
Sunwapta Pass - North bound (6675 feet)
Climb to Maligne Lake - 24 miles
Climb to Mount Edith Cavell - 8 miles
Sunwapta Pass - South bound (6675 feet)
Bow Pass - South bound (6783 feet)
Kicking Horse Pass - West bound - on Trans-Canada 1- Continental Divide (5402 feet)
Climb to Whiskey Jack - 8 miles
Kicking Horse Pass - East bound - on the old road - Continental Divide (5402 feet)
Vermilion Pass (5415 feet) - Continental Divide
Sinclair Pass (4874 feet)
Crowsnest Pass (4579 feet) - Continental Divide